Thursday, January 8, 2009

Olive Ridleys

The Olive Ridley turtle is fascinating and it is believed that the turtles will return to the beach they were born on.
The baby turtles mostly hatch at night time, and we are hoping we will see them. We were told there has been a big one sighted the last few nights but not until around 3 am. We are given red light and it is the only light we can use. It takes over an hour to get to La Flor Beach even though it is only 22 km, it looks like it's beautiful although we can only see a little with the moon. The reserve is committed to protecting the turtles and half of our excursion cost goes to the reserve.
They were 2 nests that had hatched near end of day and the reserve collected them in baskets likely in case there weren't any hatching that night, so we would still be able to see them...they did release them after we found two nests. It is the most incredible thing to see them coming up out of the sand and make their way to the ocean. It was a little scary too since we were afraid to step anywhere in case we stepped on one. OUr little red light was kind of dim, but Andrew named our turtle "YUrtle' and we followed him until he got to the sea. It was one of the coolest things I have ever seen! Our group found 4 nests altogether but we didn't see the big one. These turtles are on the endangered species list. I don't remember the exact stats, but so few of all these babies ever make it to adulthood.
We made it back to San Juan after 1 am. It was very informative and we had a great time. The cost was $30 per person with half going to the reserve through the Casa Oro...you could pay $12 and hitch a ride out to the reserve yourself. We had wanted to tent there, but with the mosquitos etc, we were glad at that point in the trip to just do the tour.

Chillin

Our ride back to Managua is pretty uneventful, except we got to have a mochachino in Chinandega. We've only been gone for a few days, but it's felt like weeks!
After washing up all our clothes in Managua we went to bed early!
When we woke up the next morning, I discovered my body was covered in bites. Andrew had a few mosquito bites, but I was covered and they were different than mosquito bites. Hopefully it's not to serious.

With it being New Years week, and nothing booked we're not sure where to go, but decide to go back to SAn Juan and if we can't find something, George has offered for us to tent out at his beach property.

We spent Sunday at George and Liay's and Andrew was stoked to get some fresh coffee.

We set off early down to San Juan. I think the lack of sleep got to me since my compassion for the Nicas ran out. I just got stressed with all the people, smells pushing shoving and deceitfulness. 5 different people told us 5 different places to catch the bus...where we had caught it previously, they said the bus no longer went from there.
So finally we get on a bus that is supposed to be an express that will take us direct to San Juan, but when we start stopping every 5 minutes shoving more and more people in, I suspect we've been had again. Sure enough we make it to a small town and they tell us we're on the wrong bus and we have to get off, this one is heading for the border.
They do take us to another bus and tell us there will be no charge and this one will for sure take us to San Juan. When we get on the bus of course they want more money, anyway we saw the guy pay him and Andrew stands ground and finally he gives up. We get to San Juan hungry, hot and I;m a little grumpy and worried we won't find a hostel.
Lunch takes almost 2 hours before we get our food, but we finally waddle off and try a few places only to discover everything is booked up. We end up at Hotel Isabella which is beautiful but really expensive for down here. Not caring at that point we book in for the night hoping we'll find a backpacker spot in the morning. It is beautiful hotel and for once we get a real good night sleep.

Hotel Isabella came with breakfast and it was fab! Fresh fruit local coffee and banana pancakes!! Yum
We went over to Casa Oro and Andrew booked in for surfing and I booked us into the turtle excursion. It's going to be a long day, but We're pumped for some rnr.

We took the truck out to Playa REmanso where Andrew had surf lessons and I vegged on the beach. Beautiful, and hot.
I hadn't paid much attention, but I started noticing a pack of locals wandering around eyeing us up, suddenly there were a couple of police with AK machine guns and they trailed them all afternoon. We found out later this beach is known for muggings at machete point. Anyway the police were all over it.
Met some cool people and made plans to hang out the next day at Maderas beach.
Our truck was supposed to pick us up at 6pm but it never showed until 6:30...so it was a mad dash when we got back to make it in time for our turtle bus. I grabbed some bread and nutella to make sandwiches for supper and we were off for the turtles.

El Obraje Cntd

If anyone is reading this...sorry we were out of internet for a bit and then ran out of time. We're actually home in the cold now but I'm going to continue where we left off.

We are up early again with breakfast of beans tortilla and cheese. I absolutely love the cheese here...We're in for another big day of hiking and visiting. The people here are very concerned for me...they think Archie and Benigno are barbaric for allowing me to tag along...es Largo they keep saying which in Nica means very far! Anyway we're geared up and off we go by 7:30am which is nice since it's somewhat cooler.
Flori is going with us some of the way today...we're going to see her sister and she wants us to meet her mom. We make 3 stops spanning likely 5 km before lunch and it is +40 by 10 am. We have run out of shade and any little bit we see along the trail we are all headed for it for a moment of cooler air. We arrive along a dusty trail to a river...I have NEVER been so excited to see water...it is actually a river here too...there are lots of barely there creeks that are called rivers here, but this one looks like a real one. As we geared up for crossing, I seriously considered swimming clothes gear and all, but we still have a lot of ground to cover, so it's a quick crossing. Flori is concerned for me and keeps trying to hold my hand...it's hilarious how fragile they think I am...They have never seen a white woman before, and I guess I'm quite a bit smaller than them. as a side note, I'm very surprised at how big the people here are...not overly tall, but many are quite chunky...I suppose it is all the carbs and sporatic eating...
Anyway we arrive at Flor's sister's house and We get cafe negre and some cookies...I'm getting great at ignoring the bugs etc in the food and drink and just swallow!
We go to Flori's mom's place and meet the bunch there...we find out one of the daughters husbands works in Costa Rica and sends money home which explains our treat of pop with ice, oreo cookie and a chocolate! We were so shocked and Archie confirmed this was the first time he has ever been served this in this area.

We hike back to our main stay home and drop Flori off and continue on to another place over the mountain. We hike straight up and get amazing views of the valleys all around. IT is hot and dry and gatorade has never tasted so good. We pass through sesame fields on the mountain side where they are stooking them...very interesting. I have a moment of elation when I think I see a orange tree, but it turns out to be a gourd tree that has no fruit value whatsoever...it grows on very infertile soil...we did find some wild papaya though...the first fruit we've seen here.
The home we arrive to seems much more industrious than any other we've seen so far. There is tile on the porch...everything is stacked neatly in the home...we have a visit while the chickens and pigs fight furiously the whole time...we're served some chicken and tortilla and off we go home.
The last part of trip home is in the dark on the trails, but it is blessedly cool!!!

We arrive back exhausted but the day isn't over yet...they are all waiting for us and nobody can believe that I'm still walking on my own! There seems to be a lot of people waiting. The people asked me to speak tonight...I;m not sure what exactly to tell them, but they have never heard from a white woman before...anyway the evening is wonderful and ends on a somewhat emotional note. They keep asking when we'll be back, we want to say a date, but the reality is we have no idea...we may never get back here again.

It is an amazing clear night and we find it hard to sleep mesmerized by looking up at the stars from our tent and talking about our trip so far.
Also I'm incensed by all the bugs in our tent. We've had to put our pack inside our tent during the day and I think all the creepy crawlies came in with it and multiplied.

We manage some sleep and are up at 4 am to hike out to catch our 6am bus.