Well we are spending our last night in Peru in Lima.
We have enjoyed every minute to the fullest and in some ways it feels like we´ve been here a year and wonder how we will fit into life back home.
So we left off in the last blog entry, in the mountains...well the ¨job¨crew got finished and with all the eating, everyone was glad to be working it off. Our time in the mountains has left us without words...how can we put what we feel into something you can understand??? We´ve decided you just must come and experience it for yourselves!!!
Time is so different here. The people as a whole have time for each other. Time to help, time to talk, time to love, time to visit, time to play, time to rest, time to be silent. The love and peace we have felt is most overwhelming. Of course the tears have been flowing, (katrina as per usual) but it´s just in awe of the love that unites us altogether. Heart friends we´ve made in moments!
So when our last day arrived, it dawned with heavy hearts. How could we ever communicate our gratefulness for all we´ve shared that went so much deeper than the natural provisions!
Well Peru woke us up again and reminded us that it works on its own time! The ride we´d arranged took off early...and with no other truck in sight, we decided to start walking down and see about catching a later truck. Well as the hours passed, we finally made it back to Chota...slipping down the rocky mountain trails 22km later!
It was wonderful tho, the feeling of stepping back in time where everyone still greets each other and visits on the trails. (we were some of the only ones on foot...most had horses or mules)
A warm shower and hot lunch and we were off for the night! A bus that left on time and we were off to Cajamarca. It felt like I would never stop crying...
We had a restful night with the Alvites in Cajamarca and up early for our morning bath at the banos de incas! Steaming natural hot springs pumped into sterilized private bath houses...well it was a bit to get Andrew to go but with high pressure since it is the thing to do in Cajamarca, he finally conceded...with little choice really...but it felt wonderful since there really isn´t such thing as ¨hot¨water!
So the final touch...we´re back where we started...at the Inka Lodge. It feels like old hat!
We look forward to seeing you soon. There is so much to share...
We hope you have enjoyed Peru. It has been most special for us and we´re so grateful for our privileges here.
Take care.
Hasta Luega!
AnK
Saturday, December 30, 2006
Close to Heaven
Buenos Noches!
We arrived into Llajas via ¨full¨ car! Toyota Corrolla station wagon...four in the back seat, three in the front seat, trunk full with luggage, plus one man curled up ontop of luggage! No car leaves until it is at least this full and if Donna hadn´t insisted on no more and paid for an extra seat, they would still be filling the car!!!
We arrived to the bach in Llajas with a warm supper waiting by Consualos. (not sure of proper spelling) it means comfort in english anyway. What a dear heart! The best supper ever! Omitas...fresh corn and fresh made cheese wrapped in a corn husk! Consuealos owns a bakery and so u can imagine how spoiled we were! We got a personal tour early morning and were sent off with goodies from the bakery! After a great sleep we headed into to Chota to catch the truck up the mountain to head to Coyunde where we were to help with some jobs at a home ontop of the world!
Trevor and Scott arranged to have the truck come by the house, and we were lucky it wasn´t that full...11 people in the bed of the truck, 7 in cab plus baby, 2 men on roof of truck, plus everyones luggage, produce, 4-100lb bags of potatoes! All in a toyota tacoma! Good advertising for Toyota!!!
It is only 22km up the mountain from Chota but it took us an hour 45mins! All winding up hill on a gravel road! It is the most beautiful country we have ever seen! Lush, green, thin mountain air 10,000feet!
As we arrived to the top, the hearty mountain people came from everywhere to help us...we were in awe of the 360 degree view of the Andean mountains! Trevor said Welcome to Paradise...this is as close to heaven on earth as one can get! (this statement became truer for us than ever before as the week went on!)
After being shown around the grounds, we settled in for a hot andean meal! Andrew and the boys got busy and started the jobs we had come to do. Katrina got started on mountain living as a woman...wow! No wonder these people are tough as nails! They work sooo hard! Hand washing clothes in wash tubs of just cold water and soap! Drying clothes is a tactful art...dodging the intermittent rain showers.
It´s not hard to sleep in the peaceful, clear, mountain homes after a hard days work!
(Starts for most farmers at 4:30am)
We´ve had all the traditional andean foods...guinea pig, omitas, tamales, potatoes (lots), fresh chicken, purple corn drink, purple corn dessert etc. Oh and lets remember the chickens and guinea pigs running around your feet as you dine! Katrina felt the fur of the guinea pig on her legs, a little nerve racking at first after all the rat talk!!! Anyway we got used to it of course and our fellowhip has been so sweet even tho we don´t always understand what´s being said!
Most everyone has dirt floors with mudbrick walls and tin roof. Not very rat proof, but these beautiful people love life and know how to be amazingly hospitable!
We have so much to learn from these people!
A mother or a child dies every 20 seconds in third world countries due to inefficient stove venting in the homes. Staggering stats...one of our friends, Ben (www.SocioAdventures.com) is doing a tremendous job to help lower this deathly number!
Well we have many more stories to share, but will let this be all for now.
Hope all is well in your world
AnK
We arrived into Llajas via ¨full¨ car! Toyota Corrolla station wagon...four in the back seat, three in the front seat, trunk full with luggage, plus one man curled up ontop of luggage! No car leaves until it is at least this full and if Donna hadn´t insisted on no more and paid for an extra seat, they would still be filling the car!!!
We arrived to the bach in Llajas with a warm supper waiting by Consualos. (not sure of proper spelling) it means comfort in english anyway. What a dear heart! The best supper ever! Omitas...fresh corn and fresh made cheese wrapped in a corn husk! Consuealos owns a bakery and so u can imagine how spoiled we were! We got a personal tour early morning and were sent off with goodies from the bakery! After a great sleep we headed into to Chota to catch the truck up the mountain to head to Coyunde where we were to help with some jobs at a home ontop of the world!
Trevor and Scott arranged to have the truck come by the house, and we were lucky it wasn´t that full...11 people in the bed of the truck, 7 in cab plus baby, 2 men on roof of truck, plus everyones luggage, produce, 4-100lb bags of potatoes! All in a toyota tacoma! Good advertising for Toyota!!!
It is only 22km up the mountain from Chota but it took us an hour 45mins! All winding up hill on a gravel road! It is the most beautiful country we have ever seen! Lush, green, thin mountain air 10,000feet!
As we arrived to the top, the hearty mountain people came from everywhere to help us...we were in awe of the 360 degree view of the Andean mountains! Trevor said Welcome to Paradise...this is as close to heaven on earth as one can get! (this statement became truer for us than ever before as the week went on!)
After being shown around the grounds, we settled in for a hot andean meal! Andrew and the boys got busy and started the jobs we had come to do. Katrina got started on mountain living as a woman...wow! No wonder these people are tough as nails! They work sooo hard! Hand washing clothes in wash tubs of just cold water and soap! Drying clothes is a tactful art...dodging the intermittent rain showers.
It´s not hard to sleep in the peaceful, clear, mountain homes after a hard days work!
(Starts for most farmers at 4:30am)
We´ve had all the traditional andean foods...guinea pig, omitas, tamales, potatoes (lots), fresh chicken, purple corn drink, purple corn dessert etc. Oh and lets remember the chickens and guinea pigs running around your feet as you dine! Katrina felt the fur of the guinea pig on her legs, a little nerve racking at first after all the rat talk!!! Anyway we got used to it of course and our fellowhip has been so sweet even tho we don´t always understand what´s being said!
Most everyone has dirt floors with mudbrick walls and tin roof. Not very rat proof, but these beautiful people love life and know how to be amazingly hospitable!
We have so much to learn from these people!
A mother or a child dies every 20 seconds in third world countries due to inefficient stove venting in the homes. Staggering stats...one of our friends, Ben (www.SocioAdventures.com) is doing a tremendous job to help lower this deathly number!
Well we have many more stories to share, but will let this be all for now.
Hope all is well in your world
AnK
Thursday, December 28, 2006
Moutain Scenes
So what have we been up to??? Well the most exciting thing that happened in Mancora was that everyone in our hotel got held up at gun point and all our belongings were stolen! Ok just kidding...we had a fantastic 5 days relaxing, fighting off pitbulls, watching spectacular sunsets, drinking fresh juice, walking the beautiful beaches and the swimming in the ever changing ocean. It was a much needed and much appreciated rest! The biggest decision we made every day was what to eat...and with little spanish, it was a chore at times...altho we are understanding lots...the speaking is slow!
So after our posh ride into Mancora, we got the shock of our life when we learned there was only one bus out of Mancora to Chiclayo...the El Dorado. Of course it´s over charged, but what do u do!! Anyway our pricey bus turns out to be the smelliest rattle trap u ever saw!!!! Everyone in Peru gets on to sell you something, screaming their sales pitch at the top of their lungs to be heard over the loud music while falling all over you as the bus jerks and turns up the sand cliffs to climb out of Mancora.
Making it Piura, we met up with some fellow travellers and we banded together to keep sane, and of course all eyes on our luggage as we changed buses!!! Travel stories shared around, and felt lucky that we hadn´t lost anything when we heard their tales.
Got a bus from Chiclayo to Cajamarca, which seemed like a cadillac after the previous ride, and I saw my first rat!!!! It was about 8 inches long plus the tail and took a liking to us canadians!!! Thank goodness for Andrew´s quick thinking and shooed it away b4 I saw how close it was to running over my feet! It was 11:30pm, and dark, so it was only when it ran into a hole in the wall behind me that I got a good look at it. Our dear friend Trevor came to meet us and took us to a warm bed!!! After a rough nights sleep (more altitude sickness katrina) we explored the beautiful mountain town of Cajamarca (3000m)in the pouring rain. Finding our way to our canadian friends home, we had a hot shower and a peaceful rest...hard to find in the noise of the cities here! They have hot mineral springs pumped into their pool...it was cleaning day tho, so we missed out! Left early thurs am to make the trip back into the Andes further for a week in Coyunde. 6 hours of breath taking scenerary ranging from 10-12000 feet on a rough gravel road. Straight down to the valley with no guard rails...it is one of the better mountain roads in Peru tho.
Buses here are so fun! 60 people on a 40 passenger bus...andrew had a few visitors on his arms, people sitting on buckets on the floor, produce everywhere...it is quite the scene! Everything gets hauled from tubs of octopus to live chickens in bags!!!
Ooo and the places they stop for eating!!! Dirt hut with all kinds of fresh skinned animals hanging on hooks between tables...chickens, guinea pigs dogs at the feet of the table looking for a scrap! Oh and we´re getting used to the ¨no privacy¨ thing here in Peru...anywhere is fair game for relieving oneself!!! Finally arriving in Chota safe and sound, we´re off to Llajas for the night!
Ciao
AnK
So after our posh ride into Mancora, we got the shock of our life when we learned there was only one bus out of Mancora to Chiclayo...the El Dorado. Of course it´s over charged, but what do u do!! Anyway our pricey bus turns out to be the smelliest rattle trap u ever saw!!!! Everyone in Peru gets on to sell you something, screaming their sales pitch at the top of their lungs to be heard over the loud music while falling all over you as the bus jerks and turns up the sand cliffs to climb out of Mancora.
Making it Piura, we met up with some fellow travellers and we banded together to keep sane, and of course all eyes on our luggage as we changed buses!!! Travel stories shared around, and felt lucky that we hadn´t lost anything when we heard their tales.
Got a bus from Chiclayo to Cajamarca, which seemed like a cadillac after the previous ride, and I saw my first rat!!!! It was about 8 inches long plus the tail and took a liking to us canadians!!! Thank goodness for Andrew´s quick thinking and shooed it away b4 I saw how close it was to running over my feet! It was 11:30pm, and dark, so it was only when it ran into a hole in the wall behind me that I got a good look at it. Our dear friend Trevor came to meet us and took us to a warm bed!!! After a rough nights sleep (more altitude sickness katrina) we explored the beautiful mountain town of Cajamarca (3000m)in the pouring rain. Finding our way to our canadian friends home, we had a hot shower and a peaceful rest...hard to find in the noise of the cities here! They have hot mineral springs pumped into their pool...it was cleaning day tho, so we missed out! Left early thurs am to make the trip back into the Andes further for a week in Coyunde. 6 hours of breath taking scenerary ranging from 10-12000 feet on a rough gravel road. Straight down to the valley with no guard rails...it is one of the better mountain roads in Peru tho.
Buses here are so fun! 60 people on a 40 passenger bus...andrew had a few visitors on his arms, people sitting on buckets on the floor, produce everywhere...it is quite the scene! Everything gets hauled from tubs of octopus to live chickens in bags!!!
Ooo and the places they stop for eating!!! Dirt hut with all kinds of fresh skinned animals hanging on hooks between tables...chickens, guinea pigs dogs at the feet of the table looking for a scrap! Oh and we´re getting used to the ¨no privacy¨ thing here in Peru...anywhere is fair game for relieving oneself!!! Finally arriving in Chota safe and sound, we´re off to Llajas for the night!
Ciao
AnK
Thursday, December 14, 2006
Beach Bums
Buenas Dias Amigos
Well our plan to relax in Paracas got tossed! We had a wonderful morning at the marine reserve and were glad we came South if not just for that! They had baby penguins!!! It was sooo cute! Hundreds if not thousands of sea lions (different types too)...sea birds...( we managed to avoid the flying pooh, but others on our boat were not so lucky!!!)
It was amazing altho I´m sure not even close to galapogos...none the less we were glad to have gone. We thought we had also booked the tour to the national reserve, but found we hadn´t so instead went diva style to rich mans hotel!!! It really was worth the money to stay at Hotel Paracas (not much by canadian standards, but top for peru) if not just for 24 hours of peace and quiet. We instantly felt better when we walked through the gates. Don wasn´t kidding when he said Paracas wasn´t attractive and we were glad for an oasis, even if it was a man made one.
Somehow we just haven´t had the heart to take pictures of what the Peruvians really live like...it is too heartbreaking. It is nothing more than run down shacks! There is also concrete and mud brick, but mostly these fallen down shacks!
After a great rest, we decided to head North...so back to Lima and on to Mancora. We caught the 4:30pm bus which actually left an hour later stuffed with baggage, chickens and who knows what else...ready for our 19 hour bus ride North. The coast from mid chile up to Ecuador is mostly desert...but the cliffs with the surf crashing below is fabulous! Our bus ride was actually quite posh...big roomy leather seats that laid almost right down...so dandy long legs here was happy, and they served us a pretty good supper!!
We arrived to what looked like Paradise...well Peru´s paradise anyway. The waters are clean here...we can actually swim if we choose to! We got a mototaxi out to our beach bungalow...it is heavenly! (the mototaxis are a riot on 3 wheels!!!) 125cc bombing up narrow rabbit trails on the cliffside! It is just what we needed and every minor frustration with the language, smells, poverty etc have all been worth it to see this part of Peru! There was a shoving match at the bus station between the mototaxi drivers as to who was going to take us...we didn´t know we were so popular!!! only in peru! haha
So here we plan to stay for at least 5 nights...but u never know u may have to come here to see us again!!!
Cheerio...until next time!
AnK
Well our plan to relax in Paracas got tossed! We had a wonderful morning at the marine reserve and were glad we came South if not just for that! They had baby penguins!!! It was sooo cute! Hundreds if not thousands of sea lions (different types too)...sea birds...( we managed to avoid the flying pooh, but others on our boat were not so lucky!!!)
It was amazing altho I´m sure not even close to galapogos...none the less we were glad to have gone. We thought we had also booked the tour to the national reserve, but found we hadn´t so instead went diva style to rich mans hotel!!! It really was worth the money to stay at Hotel Paracas (not much by canadian standards, but top for peru) if not just for 24 hours of peace and quiet. We instantly felt better when we walked through the gates. Don wasn´t kidding when he said Paracas wasn´t attractive and we were glad for an oasis, even if it was a man made one.
Somehow we just haven´t had the heart to take pictures of what the Peruvians really live like...it is too heartbreaking. It is nothing more than run down shacks! There is also concrete and mud brick, but mostly these fallen down shacks!
After a great rest, we decided to head North...so back to Lima and on to Mancora. We caught the 4:30pm bus which actually left an hour later stuffed with baggage, chickens and who knows what else...ready for our 19 hour bus ride North. The coast from mid chile up to Ecuador is mostly desert...but the cliffs with the surf crashing below is fabulous! Our bus ride was actually quite posh...big roomy leather seats that laid almost right down...so dandy long legs here was happy, and they served us a pretty good supper!!
We arrived to what looked like Paradise...well Peru´s paradise anyway. The waters are clean here...we can actually swim if we choose to! We got a mototaxi out to our beach bungalow...it is heavenly! (the mototaxis are a riot on 3 wheels!!!) 125cc bombing up narrow rabbit trails on the cliffside! It is just what we needed and every minor frustration with the language, smells, poverty etc have all been worth it to see this part of Peru! There was a shoving match at the bus station between the mototaxi drivers as to who was going to take us...we didn´t know we were so popular!!! only in peru! haha
So here we plan to stay for at least 5 nights...but u never know u may have to come here to see us again!!!
Cheerio...until next time!
AnK
Monday, December 11, 2006
Relaxing in Pigeon Land
Greetings from Paracas
We are in what seems like a shanty town in the desert. It´s right on the ocean with about 100 people living here. We plan to go to ¨poor mans galapogos¨ tomorrow and dodge the flying pooh pigeons! Really tho it is supposed to be beautiful and worth it...
We received our battery from our partying friend in Cuzco, so we have a live camera for the trip tomorrow...bonus! We arrived back in Lima for Saturday and spent the day with some friends in the market. Sunday was an all day affair of eating with some more new friends! We decided since Trevor got delayed with paperwork, we would take this week to veg out and catch up on some sleep. He is hoping to be ready to go north with us early next week where we will trek through the Andes. Trevor has put over 75000 miles on his feet trekking thru the Andes in the last 26 years! So he knows his way around!
THe Peruvians are interesting people...on top of a maze of roads filled with crazy drivers, no schedules for anything, garbage everywhere, polluted waters, they seem to show a genuine zest for life! We are constantly amazed at how patient they are with us being so new at spanish. Our taxi rides are most interesting!! There are of course the peruivans who are out to take gringos for everyhing they can...and we are honed into them! Thank goodness for Andrew...I can´t imagine being here by myself!
So we´re planning to hang out here for a few days...we found an oasis of a hotel...it´s beautiful and we find ourselves needing some serious relaxation this week...so we´re going to!!!
Hope this finds you all well
Andrew and Katrina
We are in what seems like a shanty town in the desert. It´s right on the ocean with about 100 people living here. We plan to go to ¨poor mans galapogos¨ tomorrow and dodge the flying pooh pigeons! Really tho it is supposed to be beautiful and worth it...
We received our battery from our partying friend in Cuzco, so we have a live camera for the trip tomorrow...bonus! We arrived back in Lima for Saturday and spent the day with some friends in the market. Sunday was an all day affair of eating with some more new friends! We decided since Trevor got delayed with paperwork, we would take this week to veg out and catch up on some sleep. He is hoping to be ready to go north with us early next week where we will trek through the Andes. Trevor has put over 75000 miles on his feet trekking thru the Andes in the last 26 years! So he knows his way around!
THe Peruvians are interesting people...on top of a maze of roads filled with crazy drivers, no schedules for anything, garbage everywhere, polluted waters, they seem to show a genuine zest for life! We are constantly amazed at how patient they are with us being so new at spanish. Our taxi rides are most interesting!! There are of course the peruivans who are out to take gringos for everyhing they can...and we are honed into them! Thank goodness for Andrew...I can´t imagine being here by myself!
So we´re planning to hang out here for a few days...we found an oasis of a hotel...it´s beautiful and we find ourselves needing some serious relaxation this week...so we´re going to!!!
Hope this finds you all well
Andrew and Katrina
Friday, December 8, 2006
Altitude Sickness Round 2
Hola
Well so much for being fine...we got back to our smelly hostel room and we were both wiped. Andrews headache intensified into 100 monkeys playing bongos in his head...unable to sleep a wink all night...we tossed and turned in our sleeping bags..mid night, I started feeling sick to my stomach...it came in waves the same as in the restaurant. Unable to get my stomach settled, we were quite the pair. Near early morning I finally threw up and began to feel better...meanwhile the monkeys settled down in Andrews head. We got a total of half hour sleep and up at five to get ready for our tour guide to show up with our tickets. We half hoped she wouldn´t show so we could go back to bed!
Anyway wonder of wonders...there she was right on the dot with our tickets. Of course our host at the hostel tried to slip a few more soles out of us...but wé are catching on and wising up!!!
Off to the train station...after trying to give us some fake money for change we were finally on the train and off to the magical Machu Picchu. Who knew it would take so long just to get out of Cuzco! The rail system is quite dated and the switchbacks intense. People are early risers here and we got to see more of Cuzco...I can´t imagine how annnoying the train blowing at 6am every day must be...altho they are up and working it seems...
It is a 4 hour train ride through the Sacred Valley and it wasn´t long before we were glad to pay every penny we did for this amazing trip. It is how we imagined Peru! Lush green land, with backdrop of the Andean mountains looming over head...we are entranced at the beauty! The Andes make our Rocky mountains seem like foothills!
The train makes a slow chug all the way through with a few stops along the way enbling the mountain people to sell their crafts to all the gringos! As we were taking pics of the chaos at a stop, our camera batteries died!! Our spare also!
So without a camera going to world famous machu picchu......
As we arrived into Aguas Calientes, we found our Canadian friends Leah and Janessa. They were heading up to Machu Picchu just for the day...it was nice to see them one more time b4 they continue on their world tour.
We found our hostal in the small villge...right on the river...it was beautiful...and off for a sleep!
We woke starving as we were taking it easy on the food, and off in search of a great restaurant. We chose a small french peruvian restaurant and we both agreed it was the best we have ever had. The french know how to cook! We had a 5 course meal with fresh juice for $30...it would equal to a $200plus meal in Canada!
Feeling stuffed, we waddled up to the hot springs for relaxing dip...it was beautiful right next to the river...palm trees, andes as backdrop, lush tropical flowers!
After a great sleep, we woke early to pouring rain. Our plan was to arrive b4 all the tour buses and experience the Machu Picchu with as much quietness as possible. As we were waiting for the 5;30am bus, we began to think we were in the wrong spot since the bus didn´t come and it was getting on 6am. We started down the hill thinking we were at the wrong bridge and a little old Peruvian lady came and asked us what were doing. When we told her we were waiting for the bus, she took off down the hill at a run motioning for us to follow her....she took us to where all the buses were. Andrew asked the bus driver when the first bus left and he said at 5;30am, turns out our alarm clock was set one hour ahead...I must have bumped it when checking the time in the middle of the night!!! Oh well...no chance of being late anyway!
When we arrived through the gates, there was an eery quietness with clouds creating a mist all around. There are no words to describe the feeling when you first glimpse this magical hidden city of the Incas. Can´t imagine what Hiram Bingham felt when he first discovered this city in 1911. With mouths wide open, we managed to use up a disposable camera b4 all the yellow raincoats arrived! We had a tour thru the ruins and were amazed at this 1300´s architecture! Hard to believe all this work to build this phenomenal city, only to live there for 172 years!
We met some fab people in our group and climbed together to wanupichu the mtn behind the ruins and got some more great photos, and visits,
As the hords of people began arriving around noon, we decided to head down for lunch and catch the train.
Back to Cuzco in search of a battery charger and a better hostel! Finding a better hostel was easy, finding someone who would charge the batteries was not!! We did manage to find someone...only when we went to pick them up there was only one ready. It is festival day here...not sure what festival but looks religious and everyone is celebrating...so we were promised they will deliver our other battery at 8pm tonight! We hope so since we leave early morning to head back to Lima.
Hope this finds you all well. We are having a fab time even tho we are saddened by the children following us everywhere asking to buy whatever wares they are selling so they can eat. How can we help them all??? It is very thought provoking. They do know how to play on emotions...altho when it is for their survival, we give them credit for their cleverness. We have supported them of course, but feel helpless since we know their plight will only continue....
Please give thanks tonight for all that you have...there are so many without!
Sobered, happy and grateful...
Andrew n Katrina
Well so much for being fine...we got back to our smelly hostel room and we were both wiped. Andrews headache intensified into 100 monkeys playing bongos in his head...unable to sleep a wink all night...we tossed and turned in our sleeping bags..mid night, I started feeling sick to my stomach...it came in waves the same as in the restaurant. Unable to get my stomach settled, we were quite the pair. Near early morning I finally threw up and began to feel better...meanwhile the monkeys settled down in Andrews head. We got a total of half hour sleep and up at five to get ready for our tour guide to show up with our tickets. We half hoped she wouldn´t show so we could go back to bed!
Anyway wonder of wonders...there she was right on the dot with our tickets. Of course our host at the hostel tried to slip a few more soles out of us...but wé are catching on and wising up!!!
Off to the train station...after trying to give us some fake money for change we were finally on the train and off to the magical Machu Picchu. Who knew it would take so long just to get out of Cuzco! The rail system is quite dated and the switchbacks intense. People are early risers here and we got to see more of Cuzco...I can´t imagine how annnoying the train blowing at 6am every day must be...altho they are up and working it seems...
It is a 4 hour train ride through the Sacred Valley and it wasn´t long before we were glad to pay every penny we did for this amazing trip. It is how we imagined Peru! Lush green land, with backdrop of the Andean mountains looming over head...we are entranced at the beauty! The Andes make our Rocky mountains seem like foothills!
The train makes a slow chug all the way through with a few stops along the way enbling the mountain people to sell their crafts to all the gringos! As we were taking pics of the chaos at a stop, our camera batteries died!! Our spare also!
So without a camera going to world famous machu picchu......
As we arrived into Aguas Calientes, we found our Canadian friends Leah and Janessa. They were heading up to Machu Picchu just for the day...it was nice to see them one more time b4 they continue on their world tour.
We found our hostal in the small villge...right on the river...it was beautiful...and off for a sleep!
We woke starving as we were taking it easy on the food, and off in search of a great restaurant. We chose a small french peruvian restaurant and we both agreed it was the best we have ever had. The french know how to cook! We had a 5 course meal with fresh juice for $30...it would equal to a $200plus meal in Canada!
Feeling stuffed, we waddled up to the hot springs for relaxing dip...it was beautiful right next to the river...palm trees, andes as backdrop, lush tropical flowers!
After a great sleep, we woke early to pouring rain. Our plan was to arrive b4 all the tour buses and experience the Machu Picchu with as much quietness as possible. As we were waiting for the 5;30am bus, we began to think we were in the wrong spot since the bus didn´t come and it was getting on 6am. We started down the hill thinking we were at the wrong bridge and a little old Peruvian lady came and asked us what were doing. When we told her we were waiting for the bus, she took off down the hill at a run motioning for us to follow her....she took us to where all the buses were. Andrew asked the bus driver when the first bus left and he said at 5;30am, turns out our alarm clock was set one hour ahead...I must have bumped it when checking the time in the middle of the night!!! Oh well...no chance of being late anyway!
When we arrived through the gates, there was an eery quietness with clouds creating a mist all around. There are no words to describe the feeling when you first glimpse this magical hidden city of the Incas. Can´t imagine what Hiram Bingham felt when he first discovered this city in 1911. With mouths wide open, we managed to use up a disposable camera b4 all the yellow raincoats arrived! We had a tour thru the ruins and were amazed at this 1300´s architecture! Hard to believe all this work to build this phenomenal city, only to live there for 172 years!
We met some fab people in our group and climbed together to wanupichu the mtn behind the ruins and got some more great photos, and visits,
As the hords of people began arriving around noon, we decided to head down for lunch and catch the train.
Back to Cuzco in search of a battery charger and a better hostel! Finding a better hostel was easy, finding someone who would charge the batteries was not!! We did manage to find someone...only when we went to pick them up there was only one ready. It is festival day here...not sure what festival but looks religious and everyone is celebrating...so we were promised they will deliver our other battery at 8pm tonight! We hope so since we leave early morning to head back to Lima.
Hope this finds you all well. We are having a fab time even tho we are saddened by the children following us everywhere asking to buy whatever wares they are selling so they can eat. How can we help them all??? It is very thought provoking. They do know how to play on emotions...altho when it is for their survival, we give them credit for their cleverness. We have supported them of course, but feel helpless since we know their plight will only continue....
Please give thanks tonight for all that you have...there are so many without!
Sobered, happy and grateful...
Andrew n Katrina
Tuesday, December 5, 2006
Altitude Sickness
Buenas Noches
We had a wonderful day with Trevor yesterday. He is a fountain of knowledge and most wonderful tour guide!!! We started out the morning walking through the streets of Miraflores to the Indian Markets. It is so fun just to walk the streets and observe the culture! We bargained at the market and got some local goodies...it was fun (also have our eye on some things we will go back for). We had dinner down near the President of Peru"s quarters, in a traditional peruvian restaurant. A 3 course dinner for the three of us cost $5...our papaya drink had an interesting surprise...a napakin!! it was quickly whisked away and of course a "clean" fresh drink arrived!
We made our way in the little combis, smaller than a minivan filling 25 people, to Donnas batch where we met up with our friends b4 everyone flew out on to other arrangements. What a wonderful afternoon! Fresh strawberry juice and we discovered the secret food of Peru...mangoes!!! THey are out of this world!! So after gorging on mangoes and visiting with all we headed back across town from the batch to our hotel in a larger bus. We fell in love with the smelly dirty buses...they feel much safer than taxis and we get to experience the people...the beautiful music they play together in the back of the bus with whatever they have.
We arrived home to our hostel dirty, tired and craving more mangoes...so down to the corner market to get more!!!
WE booked our flights to Cuzco and called it a night...of course after licking up mangoes!
Early morning rise to catch our flight to Cuzco...1 hr flight instead of 30 hr bus...we decided the extra $ was worth it!
Cuzco seems more friendly, safe...more policia everywhere. Got sucked in by the travel tour guides in the airport and got escorted to a hostel. It is more like Peru than our last one...although seems pretty safe. The "tour guide" wanted us to pay her bunch of usd up front without showing us any tickets or anything...so we said if she came in the morning with the tickets we would pay her. She was very cranky and wanted us to pay her $10usd (3 days worth of wages here)right now.. feeling a little uneasy about the whole thing we paid her the $10 and decided it wasnt much to us if she doesnt show up. So we may be going to Machu Picchu Thursday instead...but thats ok. We will motorbike the sacred valley tomorrow if she doesnt show and we cant get on the train in the morning. (sorry about spelling, havent figured out how to fully use the spanish keyboard)
So after the exchange we decided to go find something to eat, inquire to see how much the "tour" guide was over charging. It seems she was pretty close to what the going rate is...so will see if she shows in the am.
WE found a great little restaurant to eat in and were glad to sit down as we have been feeling somewhat woozy being at almost 11000 feet. One of the higher cities in Peru. After ordering our fresh lemonade drink I (Katrina) started feeling like throwing up, all of a sudden everything got "fat" and I could not hear...everything got really far away. Andrew got me to put my head between my knees to get the blood back to my head and after awhile I was fine...avoided passing out. Apparently this is quite typical symptoms this high up...so feel fine tonight although Andrew still has a headache.
We plan to be back in Lima on Sat to stay at the batch...looking forward to that too.
Hope this finds you staying warm in Canada!!!
It has been 28c here!!!
Ciao
AnK
We had a wonderful day with Trevor yesterday. He is a fountain of knowledge and most wonderful tour guide!!! We started out the morning walking through the streets of Miraflores to the Indian Markets. It is so fun just to walk the streets and observe the culture! We bargained at the market and got some local goodies...it was fun (also have our eye on some things we will go back for). We had dinner down near the President of Peru"s quarters, in a traditional peruvian restaurant. A 3 course dinner for the three of us cost $5...our papaya drink had an interesting surprise...a napakin!! it was quickly whisked away and of course a "clean" fresh drink arrived!
We made our way in the little combis, smaller than a minivan filling 25 people, to Donnas batch where we met up with our friends b4 everyone flew out on to other arrangements. What a wonderful afternoon! Fresh strawberry juice and we discovered the secret food of Peru...mangoes!!! THey are out of this world!! So after gorging on mangoes and visiting with all we headed back across town from the batch to our hotel in a larger bus. We fell in love with the smelly dirty buses...they feel much safer than taxis and we get to experience the people...the beautiful music they play together in the back of the bus with whatever they have.
We arrived home to our hostel dirty, tired and craving more mangoes...so down to the corner market to get more!!!
WE booked our flights to Cuzco and called it a night...of course after licking up mangoes!
Early morning rise to catch our flight to Cuzco...1 hr flight instead of 30 hr bus...we decided the extra $ was worth it!
Cuzco seems more friendly, safe...more policia everywhere. Got sucked in by the travel tour guides in the airport and got escorted to a hostel. It is more like Peru than our last one...although seems pretty safe. The "tour guide" wanted us to pay her bunch of usd up front without showing us any tickets or anything...so we said if she came in the morning with the tickets we would pay her. She was very cranky and wanted us to pay her $10usd (3 days worth of wages here)right now.. feeling a little uneasy about the whole thing we paid her the $10 and decided it wasnt much to us if she doesnt show up. So we may be going to Machu Picchu Thursday instead...but thats ok. We will motorbike the sacred valley tomorrow if she doesnt show and we cant get on the train in the morning. (sorry about spelling, havent figured out how to fully use the spanish keyboard)
So after the exchange we decided to go find something to eat, inquire to see how much the "tour" guide was over charging. It seems she was pretty close to what the going rate is...so will see if she shows in the am.
WE found a great little restaurant to eat in and were glad to sit down as we have been feeling somewhat woozy being at almost 11000 feet. One of the higher cities in Peru. After ordering our fresh lemonade drink I (Katrina) started feeling like throwing up, all of a sudden everything got "fat" and I could not hear...everything got really far away. Andrew got me to put my head between my knees to get the blood back to my head and after awhile I was fine...avoided passing out. Apparently this is quite typical symptoms this high up...so feel fine tonight although Andrew still has a headache.
We plan to be back in Lima on Sat to stay at the batch...looking forward to that too.
Hope this finds you staying warm in Canada!!!
It has been 28c here!!!
Ciao
AnK
Sunday, December 3, 2006
The Eagle has Landed
Hola
Well the last week before leaving seemed to fly. We thought we were ready, but when Thursday rolled around, I sure was glad to have the afternoon off...muchos gracias Carol!! My boss was a god send that day! At midnight we were still plogging along as though in slow motion...there seemed so much to do and being tired slowed the process. We did get 1.5hrs of sleep b4 leaving for the airport. We had clear sailing with the exception of some extreme turbulence close to Toronto. A wonderful day with the Hazelnut family...laughter, food and dad jokes...what more could we ask for?!
Saturday dawned way too early, even for us excited gringos. Aaron escorted us off to the airport in lightning speed and we were off!
I have always had a passion for flying and one of the highlights for me is meeting the people on the plane. The most interesting conversations take place in enclosed areas where no one can move!!! Andrew got a seat in the Exit aisles, so his legs were happy for the part of the trip to Miami. I met a wonderful man who owns gold mining companies in South America and he shared much knowledge about Bolivia and Peru.
Andrew was happy that his customs experience went much smoother this time, than his last venture to Florida!! We had a lay over in Miami and me the John Wayne of South America...(not officially, but wow...interesting people leaving Miami!!)
Our plane had some ¨technical¨probs and we were delayed by 1 hour...cranky pants appeared on many of the passengers!
Our friendly peru companion (in the seat next to us) spent the whole 5.5hrs warning us of the dangers of Peru...I began to wonder what we had got ourselves into...visit from the butterflies in my tummy!
Landing in Peru Airport is an experience in itself. It is beautiful, but the custom lines were horrendously long!! After an 1.5hr in the line up we were finally granted our visa and clainmed our luggage. As we went thru the gates out to the street, we realized quickly that our space was no longer our own!! It seemed like 50 cabbies were pulling and screaming at us to come with them...we must have looked like dinner with our caught in the head-lights look! Finally a man with a sign saying Katrina Harrison found us and took us to his Taxi.
We survived!!! You cannot imagine how they drive here....¨loco¨!!! Crazy, crazy, floor it all the way, 3 lane roads with 6 lanes of traffic, blaring horns, bumping and nudging each other is no big deal...keep on going and heaven forbid that someone should ever beat you off the lights!!!
There is garbage everywhere...all cement, cinder block bldgs...8 million people, (peeing everywhere) the smells are hard to get used to. Never drive anywhere without locking the doors!
We were so glad to arrive to a beautful hostal. Dark hardwood floors, not a speck of dirt anywhere...we know we are in the ¨tourist¨district. Such a difference from how the real peru is! The people are warm and friendly, although one must keep your wits about you!!
This morning we woke early and had fresh buns with home made jam and Andrew´s fav...black strong local coffee!
Our host got us a taxi (walk in2 middle of street and flag one down) and sent us on our way downtown Lima. It was to be 10 sols (approx $3us) pricey for locals, but par for tourists. Screaming people, horns blaring, taxi man yelling in spanish...I got flustered and we realized later that we over paid the taxi man...so Taxi man hit the jackpot today!!! ´Good lesson for us gringos...altho we are not sorry to see it go to someone working and are glad it went to him and not a thief!!
Tomorrow we head to the markets with our new friend Trevor (he´s been working in Peru for 26 yrs)...Looking forward to it all! Hope this finds you all well.
Hasta la Vista
AnK
Well the last week before leaving seemed to fly. We thought we were ready, but when Thursday rolled around, I sure was glad to have the afternoon off...muchos gracias Carol!! My boss was a god send that day! At midnight we were still plogging along as though in slow motion...there seemed so much to do and being tired slowed the process. We did get 1.5hrs of sleep b4 leaving for the airport. We had clear sailing with the exception of some extreme turbulence close to Toronto. A wonderful day with the Hazelnut family...laughter, food and dad jokes...what more could we ask for?!
Saturday dawned way too early, even for us excited gringos. Aaron escorted us off to the airport in lightning speed and we were off!
I have always had a passion for flying and one of the highlights for me is meeting the people on the plane. The most interesting conversations take place in enclosed areas where no one can move!!! Andrew got a seat in the Exit aisles, so his legs were happy for the part of the trip to Miami. I met a wonderful man who owns gold mining companies in South America and he shared much knowledge about Bolivia and Peru.
Andrew was happy that his customs experience went much smoother this time, than his last venture to Florida!! We had a lay over in Miami and me the John Wayne of South America...(not officially, but wow...interesting people leaving Miami!!)
Our plane had some ¨technical¨probs and we were delayed by 1 hour...cranky pants appeared on many of the passengers!
Our friendly peru companion (in the seat next to us) spent the whole 5.5hrs warning us of the dangers of Peru...I began to wonder what we had got ourselves into...visit from the butterflies in my tummy!
Landing in Peru Airport is an experience in itself. It is beautiful, but the custom lines were horrendously long!! After an 1.5hr in the line up we were finally granted our visa and clainmed our luggage. As we went thru the gates out to the street, we realized quickly that our space was no longer our own!! It seemed like 50 cabbies were pulling and screaming at us to come with them...we must have looked like dinner with our caught in the head-lights look! Finally a man with a sign saying Katrina Harrison found us and took us to his Taxi.
We survived!!! You cannot imagine how they drive here....¨loco¨!!! Crazy, crazy, floor it all the way, 3 lane roads with 6 lanes of traffic, blaring horns, bumping and nudging each other is no big deal...keep on going and heaven forbid that someone should ever beat you off the lights!!!
There is garbage everywhere...all cement, cinder block bldgs...8 million people, (peeing everywhere) the smells are hard to get used to. Never drive anywhere without locking the doors!
We were so glad to arrive to a beautful hostal. Dark hardwood floors, not a speck of dirt anywhere...we know we are in the ¨tourist¨district. Such a difference from how the real peru is! The people are warm and friendly, although one must keep your wits about you!!
This morning we woke early and had fresh buns with home made jam and Andrew´s fav...black strong local coffee!
Our host got us a taxi (walk in2 middle of street and flag one down) and sent us on our way downtown Lima. It was to be 10 sols (approx $3us) pricey for locals, but par for tourists. Screaming people, horns blaring, taxi man yelling in spanish...I got flustered and we realized later that we over paid the taxi man...so Taxi man hit the jackpot today!!! ´Good lesson for us gringos...altho we are not sorry to see it go to someone working and are glad it went to him and not a thief!!
Tomorrow we head to the markets with our new friend Trevor (he´s been working in Peru for 26 yrs)...Looking forward to it all! Hope this finds you all well.
Hasta la Vista
AnK
Sunday, November 26, 2006
Cold Front:Counting days till sunshine
Well it is late Sunday night (Nov 25) and we are down to 5 sleeps until we leave. It is -25 today and we are salivating over warmer winds on the peruvian coast. After much hassle with the Quebec government (they are now their own nation...whatever that means) Andrew finally got his birth certificate. Apparently Canada no longer recognized his birth certificate as valid proof of canadian citizenship. So as the French say...c'est la vie!!
WIth perisistence and rusty french, he was able to locate and get his new birth certificate.
With barely weeks to spare, everything came through and we received our passports without a hitch.
We have both been working like crazy...I believe the protocol is "My name is Andrew Harrison and I'm a workaholic" LOL Anyway it has been fun all the same, planning, dreaming and discussing what we're going to be doing on our new adventure.
To date we've got all the gear...how am I to survive with one pair of shoes and only 3 outfits for the entire month??? We'll see how sexy Andrew thinks I am after 4 days of body perfume and "odorized" clothing!!! The tests of marriage!! (If only they were all this fun!!) :) We just booked our hostel for the night in Miraflores District...the Inca Lodge...comes highly recommended..exciting!!
So three days of work...then off to Ontario for a night and on to Peru!! I hope what awaits us is as fabulous as our dreams....
Cheerio all...until next time!
WIth perisistence and rusty french, he was able to locate and get his new birth certificate.
With barely weeks to spare, everything came through and we received our passports without a hitch.
We have both been working like crazy...I believe the protocol is "My name is Andrew Harrison and I'm a workaholic" LOL Anyway it has been fun all the same, planning, dreaming and discussing what we're going to be doing on our new adventure.
To date we've got all the gear...how am I to survive with one pair of shoes and only 3 outfits for the entire month??? We'll see how sexy Andrew thinks I am after 4 days of body perfume and "odorized" clothing!!! The tests of marriage!! (If only they were all this fun!!) :) We just booked our hostel for the night in Miraflores District...the Inca Lodge...comes highly recommended..exciting!!
So three days of work...then off to Ontario for a night and on to Peru!! I hope what awaits us is as fabulous as our dreams....
Cheerio all...until next time!
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